Showing posts with label Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Show all posts

2.1.21

 

Interpreters searching through the dark towards the light, Crystal Cave Sequoia National Park, 2010

We have tragically lost so many to COVID in 2020, but last week we lost someone incredibly close to the minds and hearts of readers and writers like myself. Barry Lopez succumbed to prostate cancer on December 25th 2020, and with that we lost one of the most gifted and well known environmental writers of the English language. However, to call him an environmental writer is to do an injustice, and I think he can only describe what he really wrote about. Here, in a now famous interview with the great Bill Moyers, Lopez says, 


“ I’m not writing about nature. I’m writing about humanity. And if I have a subject, it is justice. And the rediscovery of the manifold way in which our lives can be shaped by the recovery of a sense of reverence for life.” 


It is this reverence for life that I recognize in his many stories and writing style. Lopez’ books, such as Arctic Dreams, Crossing Open Ground, and Of Wolves and Men, can be found on the shelves of every naturalist, park ranger, wilderness advocate, and those who appreciate masterful storytelling. In books like Arctic Dreams one can really see this reverence for life he had and shared with us through his storytelling. Among many other disciplines, Lopez weaves together geography, archaeology, sociology, biology, adventure and travel to tell the story of some of the most wild and sacred parts of the planet. He also spent a great deal writing about as he said, humanity, our place in this world and our relations to each other and the plants and animals as well. Lopez lived in Finn Rock Oregon, his house surrounded by wilderness with the Mackenzie river right out in front. Much of the land around his house, including some of his own property and personal archives, was burned in one of the now infamous massive fires that tore through western North America in 2020. He wrote about the fires and their impact on his life recently on his website. I came to know Lopez and his work sometime after I had left college with a literature degree. Then, I had only some vague knowledge of who the heavy hitters were in the environmental lit world. Embarrassingly, I hadn’t even heard of Lopez until my first season working as a naturalist interpreter in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park in 2010. When, during an orientation before the busy summer season, I was with a bunch of other new recruits and young interpreters and we got to talking about the literature of the outdoors. One of them said something about Barry Lopez and Edward Abbey hanging out in the 70’s writing about the Desert and Wilderness, ‘two of the best writers ever,’ he casually looked over and said to me as he waited for an approval, or a hell yeah, something. But I didn’t know who either of them were, so I just gave him a slight nod and said, ‘yep, definitely.’


When I got back to my cabin I couldn’t stop thinking about what a fraud I was. There I was, a park ranger, a devout nature fanatic, with a degree in Literature, and I hardly knew anything about two of the greatest writers of the genre. I had heard of Abbey, but I still hadn’t really read any of his works. Lopez, on the other hand, I had to scratch my head, why hadn't I heard of this guy? It was probably due to my narrow minded and half assed approach to Literature and writing at the time. For whatever reason, I was missing out on some of the best works ever made about adventure, travel, place, and the American Wilderness. That summer I decided I needed to upgrade my canon, and that I would get to know these two great American authors. Thinking about it now, it was  just the right time for me to dive in. I had just started my first summer season in that great Wilderness park, it would be the summer that I would be introduced to many things that I never had any relation to before, like Wilderness, with a big. That year I would come to learn where the term came from, how it was managed by the park service, and how to access some of the tens of thousands of acres of it that could be found right there in California’s majestic Sierra Nevada. I started exploring the Sierra at the same time I started to explore the work of Edward Abbey.  I got a copy of the classic Wilderness opus Desert Solitaire right there in the visitor center that I worked in. I devoured it instantly, and became even more fascinated with this idea of wilderness preservation and the need to get out and find yourself deep within it. It would take me a little while longer to finally get into Lopez, but when I did, it was another transformative experience. At this point I had returned to my home park, the Santa Monica Mountains NRA, and was back living in park housing near the small community of Newbury Park in Ventura County. In the public library there, I looked up Lopez and found Arctic Dreams. When I opened that blue book, I was immediately immersed in the immense wilderness and the frozen world of the Arctic with Barry. Around this same time, the whole Arctic National Wildlife Refuge drama had begun, and I had been thinking about that place, up there at the literal top of the world. I felt connected to it, on a level more spiritual, and I saw it as a massive refuge for wilderness itself, a place where migrations of caribou and birds could take place uninterrupted, a gigantic healthy ecosystem that could only be found in such a place so remote and so far away. Reading Arctic Dreams I was able to visit this wild place, and through Lopez’ beautiful storytelling, I was able to understand the magic of the place. That book is perhaps one of the greatest books about place ever written. 


Lopez had just recently published his newest work, Horizon, in 2019. It’s a work that I understand spans decades, and is somewhat of a continuation to Arctic Dreams. A book that many of us have long been waiting for, the fact that Barry left it for us so close to his passing, is a special gift. I’m eager to get my hands on a copy. I kept up with Lopez over the years through his role at Orion Magazine, where he was a contributing editor and where his work was featured frequently. Now, we will still be able to keep up with him, because he was a prolific writer, and I still have much to discover from the large breadth of work that he left behind. I think after this year, I am in need of some Barry Lopez. I’m ready to travel with him to the corners of the planet, to the beautiful places, to the damaged places, and to try and understand our place here and how our relations to each other shape the actions we make on this one and only sacred planet. Losing Lopez we have really lost a unique voice in the environmental literature world, a world that has very few modern contemporary voices that can appeal to a large swath of readers. In a recent issue of Orion Lopez shared a piece about a trip he took to the Australian Outback, Lopez wrote, 


“In this trembling moment, with light armor under several flags rolling across northern Syria, with civilians beaten to death in the streets of Occupied Palestine, with fires roaring across the vineyards of California, and forests being felled to ensure more space for development, with student loans from profiteers breaking the backs of the young, and with Niagaras of water falling into the oceans from every sector of Greenland, in this moment, is it still possible to face the gathering darkness, and say to the physical Earth, and to all its creatures, including ourselves, fiercely and without embarrassment, I love you, and to embrace fearlessly the burning world?”


Good question, I don’t know.


Although Lopez lived out in the country, it’s something he said about living in the city that I always think about. In that same interview with Moyers, Lopez talks about being in New York, and as he’s describing the unique kind of blue light found there on a winter day he says that,  “I’ve never had this sense of antipathy towards cities, you know, it’s the best we can do.” That really struck me, and I have never forgotten it. It showed me two things, one that Lopez acknowledges his fortunate place in our world to live in a place such as Finn Rock, and two, that he has compassion for the rest of us. I understood then that the idea, this city vs country argument, is not important. What’s important is that we make sane and sustainable decisions about our homes, no matter where they are. It made me think of just how lucky some people are to live out in the woods, but that yes, perhaps, cities are the best that we can do. For one thing, if we want to preserve open and wild spaces, then we cannot all run to the mountains and start building log cabins. I believe that too often we hear this cliched dualism from many outdoor enthusiasts or nature writers in general, about getting out of the city, and escaping into the wilderness. But of course we know now that this neglects the real situations that most of us all live in. I’m saddened to know that we have lost someone that asks us to think deeply about our place in this world. Barry’s wife Deboarah wrote a moving tribute to her husband on his website, in it she described his last moments and I found this particular passage quite powerful: 


“... We told him a thousand times, a thousand-thousand times, that we love him, that we will love him always, that he could cross his river now. At 7:21, he stepped in, with one last long breath.


We washed him with water from the McKenzie River and wrapped him in a Pendleton blanket.”

11.10.18

First Summer in the (western) Sierra


Ranger Meadow and Elizabeth Pass from my first backpacking trip in the summer of 2010. Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park.

Being away from California and the Sierra this past summer I did not make it up to the Western Sierra, where I have been going every year since 2010 when I first got my seasonal park ranger gig there in Kings Canyon National Park.


I had never been to the west side of the Sierra before I found that job in Kings Canyon, even though I grew up and lived just 3-4 hours away from the Giant Sequoia groves and the famous national parks that protect them. Like many of my friends I was lucky to be able to visit the east side of the Sierras often over the years, but I never knew what I was missing over on the other side. Of course many people prefer the east side due to its scenic and dramatic beauty, as well as the easy access into the high country it allows. On the west side however, one finds rolling savanna like hills eventually leading to some of the most beautiful groves of large Valley Oaks before the hills get steeper and the oaks start to mix with pines. And eventually as you go up the mountain roads and above 6,000 feet, you reach the mixed conifer forest, the finest forest in the West. Made up of Ponderosa and Geoffrey pines, interspersed with White Firs, Incense Cedars, Black Oaks, Junipers, and in some places, Giant Sequoias. This is where I worked, in the Grant Grove district of Kings Canyon NP. And it was there during that first summer in 2010 when I would go on my first backpacking trip.

I had car camped all over California and Baja up until then, and I had hiked plenty too, but I knew nothing about this other world beyond the day-hike. I was fortunate that first summer to fall into a group and meet a whole new cast of characters and friends, whom I would listen closely to as they spoke of the lore of the "backcountry." Their were magic places up there they assured me, tucked between mountain passes, away from the summer crowds. I yearned to know, heck, I was a ranger working the main visitor center there, I had to know. It is not always easy to get into the backcountry while working a seasonal NPS gig. Contrary to popular belief, we did not get paid to go roam around the trails all day, just part of the day.

Eventually, I was ready to get out there and I found my chance. I was told that every ranger was allotted 2 personal development days to work outside of their district, or to go out into the backcountry, on official reconnaissance of course. I decided to take my two days and link them back to back with my two day weekend to come up with four days. I had four days now to test out my new backpack  and lightweight tent that I had just bought down in Fresno at the REI. I had my gear, I was feeling good, and I was more than ready to find out what all my friends had been talking about. As luck would have it, when things work, sometimes they really work, and there's no better feeling when things start to click into place before a trip. It just so happened that a backcountry ranger, Ranger Cindy, was going back out to her station at Roaring River the same day I was heading out. So she offered to give me a ride to the station on one of her horses. Ranger Cindy was one of only a couple of wilderness rangers that still used 'stock' or horses and mules. I was excited to have the chance to work with a wilderness ranger and to get a lift on a horse part of the way.

I met up with Cindy and her horses and mules over off of a long dirt road at the trailhead. She loaded me up on a fairly young horse that would be leading the stock train. I had not been on any kind of horse or four legged animal in quite some time, and I was a little curious to see how things would go as we rode into the afternoon. At one point we were descending one particularly steep pass as a full moon rose over Deadman Canyon. I was able to pull out my old Nikon N90s and take a shot on horseback. After making it to the station in the dark I found a spot in the station to sleep and rest. The next day I would head out alone over Elizabeth Pass and into the Kings Canyon and Sequoia NP Wilderness. When I woke up, Ranger Cindy was making scrambled eggs. This is a lady who took her young son into the backcountry since he was a little baby, and at that time in 2010 she split her time between her home in Utah and the park, and her son was now a teen and still joining her often into the wilderness each summer. After the eggs, I grabbed my pack and headed out to find my first camp.

Not long after leaving Roaring River station I came upon this view (shown above) of Ranger Meadow. Everything around me and the meadow was literally just glowing green. I was alone, I saw a coyote off in the distance, and I felt like I now knew what my new mountain friends had been talking about. There were places out there where one could feel the vibrations of the earth, under the bright sun, with the granite pass ahead, and only you and what you have in your pack to survive. My first night backpacking I found a campsite above a large lake and had to set me tent up next to some recent bear scat, but due to the rocky terrain there we're not many other options. And the scat appeared to be at least a couple of days old, so I summoned that the bear was probably long gone. I spent that first night there, above a glacial blue lake surrounded by steep granite walls, like some wild ancient amphitheater.

The next day I repacked my gear and started up towards Elizabeth Pass. The pass that Cindy had been telling me about, not so bad to hike she said, but to get over and back down with stock was another story. Horse wrecks were not uncommon in the Sierra, and they can cause some serious damage to gear, people, and horses. Having no horses to worry about this day, and having the entire day to myself, it was good to know that it was my own two legs that would carry me and my pack over the pass. Elizabeth Pass is officially where the boundary lines of Kings Canyon and Sequoia meet, and sits at just about 12,000 feet. After hoofing it up and over the granite steps in the full sun I was thirsty and hot as I hobbled down into the Sequoia side of the barren and rocky pass. And again the universe was smiling down upon me. Not long after coming down I found a clear full creek running into a slot like pool. I quickly filled up my nalgene and drank, and then took off all my gear and jumped in their naked, feeling the ice cold water surround my body, out there on that mountain pass I was again feeling the magic that I had hoped existed.

That was the beginning of a relationship with the Sierra that I still can't get over. The day after my season ended that same year, my friend Jason and I got a ride out to the Florence Lake trailhead from a coworker. From there we would go on a 7-day backpacking trip down the John Muir Trail and through the heart of the Kings Canyon Wilderness. It was truly epic. I was able to work in Kings Canyon for only one more season after that, the following year in 2011. I would not go back to work there again because had I reluctantly took a permanent job with the Santa Monica Mountains NRA, meaning that I would not be able to work at Sequoia and Kings the next summer. However, I would find adventure, great work, and so many amazing and adventurous friends at the SMMNRA too. I would also be able to go back and visit my old friends and my favorite places every year after, except this past one. Just two years ago on one of those trips I got engaged to Magdalena, and that moment has set me on the track that I am now following, far away from California. There are still so many places I would like to explore in Sequoia and Kings Canyon and the Sierra, there are so many adventures to dream up and too many sun filled days out there ahead in time when one can imagine doing nothing better than just wondering around the colossal granite wilderness all day. It can drive one crazy thinking about all that space, all that time. All that being said, South America holds a whole new world for us both to discover together. And those rocks in the Sierra, they're not going any where any time soon.

31.7.13

Tiny Houses





I don't need much, a tiny house would do just fine. My friend Humphrey has just purchased this beautiful property and I couldn't be happier for him. I too hope to one day have a little bit of land and a cozy cottage.

22.7.13

California Days







What once was, where did the Grizzly and Condor roam, and what did California look like 500 hundred years ago? I find myself always asking these questions, pondering them as I drive up the 99 or down the 101. In this awesome state of ours so much has changed, yet so much remains. In Laura Cunningham's landmark book, A State of Change: Forgotten Landscapes of California, the author portrays these old California scenes in her paintings, sketches, and vivid accounts gathered from years of biological investigation and good old ground truthing and researching multiple sources while speaking with native Paiutes and experts in all fields California flora, fauna, history. Her book has inspired in me a desire to investigate and to find those relic populations of vast marshes, antelope herds, Grizzly tunnels, and vanished lakes.

I got to do some of this this past weekend when I spent two days with Jim Lowery of Earth Skills. I have taken a few classes with him now and every time I do I leave with a valuable and tangible experience that helps me to understand and identify with this place in a way I have been yearning to for decades. Over this recent two-day Wilderness Skills course that myself and a father son duo were enrolled in we learned how to build a debris hut (that I slept in, immersed in Jeffrey Pine needles), create cordage from local plants, find food in the forest, and make fire among so much more. Spending time with Jim is like living inside of all of the best field guides for a little while.

After the class I went on down to the foothills where Kern, San Luis Obispo, and Ventura counties all merge. There I was searching for California Condors flying free, and I soon found two soaring over the Bitter Creek National Wildlife Refuge just after I had passed the sign indicating that you are now driving through Condor country. I watched one, then another, most likely a mated pair. They flew high and then dropped low soaring over the canyon side by side probably looking for carrion to feed their chick. Some say that we will forever have to provide carcasses for these birds, but here they are reproducing in the same place where the last wild Condors were trapped to begin the captive breeding program over 20 years ago.

I couldn't stop there, so I drove up the Great Central Valley and then East towards those huge mountains beyond the haze. I was heading for Mineral King in Sequoia National Park, a place I had never been to even though I had worked two summers in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park. After making my way up the one lane road to about '7500 elevation I found myself transformed, immediately at ease among that magnificent landscape, removed, as best as it could be from modern times. A truly magical place that was once destined to be a Disney ski resort, and thank the creator it was not to be. Up there the small cabins from the people of the Kaweah who came up from the Valley in the early 1900s still stand. And even more impressive than the history is the lush alpine valley that leads to the high peaks of the Southern Sierra. I explored the White Chief Canyon where mines and caves are spread out all around like gopher tunnels. From there I went up and over to Eagle Lake after losing my way and trekking across loose talus for a good while I finally found the lake. Looking down over it and beyond the tall granite peaks of the Sierra high in the blue sky, a sacred space. I had the place largely to myself besides the Kestrel hovering by White Chief Lake, a Pika guarding White Chief mine, a feisty little chipmunk that couldn't stop bobbing its tail every time it chirped loudly in my direction, and a tiny Calliope Hummingbird buzzed by me while I was delicately making my way across a high ridge as it went from one Columbine flower to the next. In that part of the high country one can still see a California removed, one can still feel a sense of the beauty and immensity that remains.

11.6.13

Sierra Birds






Pileated Woodpecker
Cassin's Vireo
MacGillvray's Warbler
Western Tanager
Yellow Warbler

6.7.12

Parkies













It was with a heavy heart that I decided not to return to the Sierra this summer to work another season working in Kings Canyon National Park. A better opportunity awaited and I had to take that leap into a full time career but, I sure do miss those mountains.

So with a few days off I headed back to the place where I spent two of the best summers of my life not only to see the beauty but to be amongst friends. The best kind of friends, parkies.

I made many new friends, reconnected with old ones, and was welcomed like a brother by all. We formed a ragtag band of gypsies playing flutes, Bulgarian bagpipes, and whatever else we could find and then joined the annual 4th of July parade in Grant Grove. My new mate Rob and I climbed to the top of Alta peak (11,204 ft) where we could see Mt. Whitney in the distance. It was a much needed retreat and I feel as though I will always have a friend and somewhere to stay up there for a long time to come.