I haven't been around for the past two summers due to my two seasonal stints in the mountains. Often many of my amphibian friends would ask me how I'm going to deal with the loss of the summer surfing. I would try not to let on about my true feelings, with my friends or when anyone else would mention that it must be tough to be a surfer and be away from the ocean, but all I could think was; Yeah, I'm really going to miss the June gloom, small and crowded waves, the throngs of biker clubs racing all over PCH, and all of those people and the trash they leave behind. Also, in the mountains I get little to no news and like it that way, no cell service, and not much internet access. I did have plenty of time however, to mindsurf and prepare for the Fall/ Winter season and for sessions like the one pictured here in late January.
I would just bow my head and say halfheartedly , 'yeah I'm really going to miss those south swells, oh well.'
All photos by Kendall Johnson
