Sky and Water

October's Gone

October has passed by like a freight train left at my beloved beachbreak. Till next year.

"The yard was full of tomato plants about to ripen, and mint, mint, everything smelling of mint, and one fine old tree that I loved to sit under on those cool perfect starry California October nights unmatched anywhere in the world."
— Jack Kerouac (The Dharma Bums)

Blue Water Gold Rush

After reading Tom Kendrick's Blue Water Gold Rush I yearned to experience what a life working out at sea was like. He writes about his years as an urchin diver out of Santa Barbara and Northern California during the late 70's and early 80's. The descriptions he gives of the urchin business in its infancy here in California makes one want to be transported right back to that time period and place.

The current commercial fisherman living in and around the Channel Islands surely know what Kendrick is writing about. When I see those fisherman off our shores I wonder what it would be like to go out to the islands consistently and brave the harsh conditions. Of course there would be many perks, such as being able to access hidden waves and much interaction with the oceanic ecosystem while making your living off the sea. Yet, as romantic as it sounds it seems that in these current times after which we have pillaged the oceans for everything and anything it might be hard to truly practice sustainable fishing.

My hat goes off to those who do practice it and as Rasta has said if you care about the ocean then don't eat seafood because 90% of it is harvested in an unsustainable way. So as I migrate towards complete vegetarianism with a little meat and fish here and there I always remind myself that the ocean needs us now more than ever. At times I even wonder if there's still such a thing as sustainable fishing today. Maybe we just need to leave the whole big blue sea alone for a few years before we can claim to be harvesting seafood in a sustainable fashion.


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Plastic Pelagic

Some seriously disturbing images by Chris Jordan.

Jordan the photographer who is constantly reminding us of just how much we consume has turned his lens towards the carcasses of albatross chicks on Midway Island.

Apparently the mothers feed the baby chicks pieces of plastic because they look like food, and because the ocean is full of floating plastic bits.

One way we can stop this tragedy is to completely stop buying plastic bottles and such and if you re already on that page then we can do what Rodrigo McCoubrey of Rodrigo's Recycled Art does with refuse.

I've been a big fan of his work ever since I saw it in the Surfers Journal (Vol.15 #1) awhile back. Rodrigo makes funky sculptures out of trash. Seems that if every community, every school, college, and art institution did what he does a few times a year we could reduce the amount of plastic in the ocean, create some cool crafts, and at the same time raise funds for the arts and education.

All images by Chris Jordan

Analog Autumn

Was rummaging through some old negs and found these.

All images were taken during various states of different Autumns throughout the past few years.

Top. Malibu Creek (notice the big Blue Heron perched atop one of the branches)
Mid. Upper Sycamore Canyon
Bot. The old Ap at Satwiwa/ Rancho Sierra Vista

What are They Fishing For?

Had to work all day but was able to get a few glimpses of the glassy surf. Post rain sessions are always risky but often worth the gamble due to lack of bodies in the lineup.

Managed to squeeze in a quick session before dark of high tidey peaks while witnessing the ocean calm and the light show offshore begin.

After rains I often notice a fleet of commercial fishing vessels off the coast hanging out well into the dark, if not staying overnight completely. I was wondering what are they going for? Seabass? The lights and late night stay make me think they're going for squid after dusk but I don't know what they could be hauling up beforehand.

Sacred Craft Del Mar

Made it down for the tail end of the Scared Craft event in Del Mar this past weekend. These shows are seriously overwhelming; so many insanely beautiful masterfully shaped surfboards to see, so many legendary people to meet with, and not enough cash to make an order with all of them in attendance.

One of the highlights I witnessed was watching Dick Brewer pick the winner for the Brewer shape off contest in which Pat Rawson was chosen. Image is of the two standing in front of all the Brewer guns shaped by the contestants.

I wanted to take many of the boards home with me, but I really came close to picking up the Junod double wing quad with 101 glass on bamboos at top, pic does not do the board justice. Michel's boards are aesthetically perfect, and they must be a pleasure to ride as well because Michel is an incredibly nice and genuine guy, an awesome surfer (check out The Present) and although I still have yet to test one of his boards, they just have that look of perfection. I have made friends and hope to get one very soon.

Too many cool shapes and awesome shapers to mention, and if you haven't been to one of these its a must.

I can't wait for the next one!